Jewelry Metals Guide

Not sure which metal is right for you? This guide breaks down every metal you will find in the Peterson MADE collection, from fine gold to jeweler's brass, so you can shop and wear with confidence.

Sterling Silver

Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver, with copper as the most common remaining metal. It is considered a precious metal and is one of the most widely used materials in fine handcrafted jewelry.

• Although stronger than pure silver, sterling silver is softer than gold-filled metal and can be prone to scratching if not treated with care.
• Sterling silver tarnishes naturally through a chemical reaction with air and chemicals. Your skin oils may actually help preserve it, which is why wearing it frequently is recommended.
• In rare cases, individual body chemistry can react with sterling silver. Pregnancy, thyroid conditions, hormone levels, and medications can all affect how your skin interacts with the metal.

Gold Alloys

Pure gold is mixed with other metals in the molten state to create alloys with different properties, including strength, durability, and color. The most common gold alloy is yellow gold, which contains silver and zinc. Other alloy combinations produce white gold (nickel), rose gold (copper), and even green gold.

The karat system describes the ratio of pure gold to other metals. In the United States, 14 karat gold is the standard for fine jewelry, representing 58.3% pure gold.

• 10 karat gold (10/24) is 41.6% pure gold
• 14 karat gold (14/24) is 58.3% pure gold, the most common in the US
• 18 karat gold (18/24) is 75% pure gold
• 24 karat gold is pure gold, rich in color but too soft for most jewelry. It is most often used for surface applications like plating or keum-boo bonding.

Gold-Filled

Gold-filled is a layer of 14k gold pressure bonded to a base metal, typically jeweler's brass. It is a popular and durable alternative to solid gold, offering a similar look at a more accessible price point.

• Gold-filled contains at least 5% (1/20) gold by weight, far more than gold-plated jewelry.
• The pressure bonding process makes it tarnish and chip resistant, unlike gold plating.
• A properly cared for gold-filled piece will not flake or chip and will maintain its finish over time.

Vermeil  / Vermeil-Style

Vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is a high quality form of gold plating in which a thick layer of gold is applied over sterling silver. True vermeil must be 14k or higher and contain at least 2.5 microns of gold with no other metals layered in between.

Vermeil-style follows the same principle, with gold over sterling silver, with a fine layer of white metal (such as nickel, palladium, or rhodium) in between for added wearability and longevity. This technique dates to 18th century France and is still used in fine jewelry, including the Crown Jewels and Olympic gold medals.

Jeweler's Brass and Bronze

Brass is a bright yellow or reddish alloy of copper and zinc, available in more than 60 recognized variations. Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin with a warm, brown tone.

• Jeweler's brass closely resembles 14k yellow gold in color, making it a beautiful base-metal option.
• Bronze has a warm, earthy tone. Most sculpture you see is cast in bronze.
• Both brass and bronze oxidize naturally, developing a rich patina within days or weeks depending on your climate and care routine.
• You can keep brass and bronze pieces polished or let the patina develop naturally for a warmer, deeper hue.
• Depending on your body chemistry, brass or bronze may react with your skin and create a dark or greenish tint. This is a common reaction with copper-based alloys and is not harmful.